Christian CALLEC

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UMBRIA – TOSCANA (9) … TERRE DE LA CUSTODIA

Posted by Christian Callec on dinsdag, juli 20th, 2010

The last day and hours of our short Umbrian trip were spent at TERRE DE LA CUSTODIA close to Gualdo Cattaneo. TERRE DE LA CUSTODIA is part of a big agricultural project of the very well-known Umbrian family FARCHIONI (olive oil, cereals, wine).

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For a panoramic animated view of the winery, see the WEBSITE.

We started with a relaxed visit of the modern cellars and vineyards with MARCO MINCIARELLI (in charge of the viticulture branch) and then went for a very interesting tasting.

The tasting

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Duca Oduardo Grechetto Colli Martani DOC 2009: Surprising fresh and fruity white wine, with delicate accents of minerality and spring flowers. Very fresh and vivid, well-made, juicy and mouth-filling, with a perfect balance and a very nice, digestible, fresh and mineral finish. Good wine. Incredible good value for money, € 4.5 at the winery shop (about € 7-8 in EU wine shop).

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Terre de la Custodia Grechetto Riserva PLENTIS Colli Martani DOC 2008: Rich, intense and sensual white flower scents in the bouquet, sustained by delicate, ripe aging tones. Very fresh in attack, round, full-bodied and juicy on the palate, with a long and lush aromatic after-taste. Good wine! Good value for money, € 7.5 at the winery shop (about € 10-12.5 in EU wine shop).

Terre de la Custodia Rosé Vino Spumante di Qualità, Metodo Classico Tradizionale: 100% sangiovese grape vinified as white wine. Aged on its lees for 12 months. Nice, appealing color. Fresh and aromatic, spicy and floral. Good structure, well-made, good balance, elegant and really enjoyable. I believe much more in spumante from sangiovese than from sagrantino. This wine is really different, with a genuine identity. The taste is fresh and mild, very easy drinking, and yet, only 4 g residual sugar! Nice wine. Very competitive price for a sparkling wine with second fermentation in the bottle, only € 15 at the winery shop! This quite new product could cost about € 25-28 in EU wine shop.

Terre de la Custodia Collezione Colli Martani rosso DOC 2009: Made from sangiovese, sagrantino and merlot. Very appealing wine in color, bouquet and taste. Easy drinking, round, mild. Well-made, commercial wine for fresh pasta and light tomato sauce or meat ‘ragù’. € 4.5 at the winery shop.

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Terre de la Custodia Montefalco rosso DOC 2008: Produced from 60% sangiovese, 15% sagrantino and 25% montepulciano. Aged during 6 months in 3-5 years old barriques. Quite aromatic nose, plenty of ripe berries, lush spices and a gentle ‘kiss of the oak’. In bouquet and taste, a slightly balsamic undertone. Fresh on the palate, very fruity, with good and ripe tannins (sagrantino) and a mild, round, aromatic and velvety finish (sangiovese, montepulciano. Good wine. € 9.5 at the winery shop (about € 15-20 in EU wine shop).

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Terre de la Custodia Montefalco Sagrantino secco DOCG 2005: Aged for 12 months in barriques. Great color, typical for sagrantino wines, ruby red with garnet nuances. Very aromatic, a mix of ripe berries, warm saddle leather, vanillin and spices. Very good acidity, ripe tannins, well-balanced, powerful but still elegant, with a long, mineral and rich aftertaste. Good wine! € 16.5 at the winery shop (€ 25-30 in EU wine shop).

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Terre de la Custodia EXUBERA Riserva Montefalco Sagrantino secco DOCG 2004: THE ICON WINE of this company, made from the best sagrantino grapes from the best vineyards, 4 ha of higher situated gentle slopes. Aged for 18 months in barriques, 5 months in stainless steel tanks and 4 years in bottles. Absolutely fabulous bouquet, you could even use the word ‘exuberant’ for that… Loads of sunbathed berries, on a fascinating background of warm leather, pepper, vanilla, licorice and wild aromatic herbs… Very fresh, powerful, full-bodied, mouth-filling, with strong but ripe tannins and a very long, sensual and slightly mineral aftertaste. Outstanding wine! Not cheap, € 68 at the winery shop (€ 100+ in EU wine shop?). Very promising, great aging potential.

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Terre de la Custodia ‘MELANTO’ Montefalco Sagrantino passito Riserva DOCG 2005: Powerful and rich aromatic, evoking sundried grapes, licorice, mellow pipe tobacco spices and balsamic nuances. Quite sweet (If I did understand well, 160 g of residual sugar) but with great structure, strong tannins and good acidity for a perfect balance and a great complexity. Still young, will get better. The aftertaste is now a little bit short behind such a powerful bouquet and mouth feeling. Very good wine! € 19 at the winery shop; could be around € 30 in EU wine shop.

NB: TERRE DE LA CUSTODIA uses a special bottle, very useful for sommeliers that do not have the time to decant a bottle. For explanations about SIBELLA, the exclusive bottle especially designed for TERRE DE LA CUSTODIA by TOSCA SIBELLA FARCHIONI, see the WEBSITE.

The dinner

It was getting dark, damp and threatening outside on the wide terrace. Once again, the storm was expected but didn’t come, unfortunately no rain, no natural cooling. The controlled temperature inside was much better. We started the ‘goodbye Umbria and arrivederci’ dinner with the earlier tasted Spumante rosé and a whole range of great appetizers: bruschetta with olive oil, bruschetta with tomatoes, scrambled eggs with truffle, battered and fried salvia leaves, zucchini flowers and onions, a kind of bisque with big shrimps, a wonderful light and tasty bread salad called ‘panzanella’…

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The meal at the table was great! The ambiance was relaxed and informal. Marco Minciarelli, the two charming Rumanian assistants and of course the talented chef did their very best to give us a wonderful memory of Umbria. At the end of the meal, the chef came especially for our ‘sweet tooth’ colleague from Poland to explain how to make this absolutely addictive passito cream we all enjoyed very much with all kinds of fresh fruits (basically: a sabayon of sagrantino passito, sugar and lots of egg yolks, mixed after cooling with heavy cream (>45% fat) and served in a small ‘verrine’ pot… yummy yummy!).

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