UMBRIA – TOSCANA (7) … COLSANTO
The FATTORIA COLSANTO is situated near to the picturesque medieval city of Bevagna, not so far from the other winery we visited the same morning, Adanti – Arquata. At the first glance when we arrived, it was clear that this was not a typical ‘Umbrian’ project, but the work of someone with a wide look at viticulture. High density vineyards (7.500 plants per ha), some still very young, a central winery building, modern but in local colors and style, an old wine cellar from the 18th century; the whole property has a surface of 20 ha planted with olive trees and sagrantino, sangiovese and merlot vines.
The winery is fully operational, but the real quality of the wines will only be revealed in the next 5-10 years, when the vineyards are all grown up. However, the tasted wines from this company are already very promising. Not such a surprise actually, when you know that the owners of Fattoria Colsanto, LIVON Aziende Agricole, have proved themselves to the whole world in Tuscany (Borgo Salcetino) but above all in their ‘home country’ Friuli: Livon and RoncAlto in Collio, Villa Chiòpris in Grave.
For the Livon brothers Tonino and Valneo, wine is made in the vineyard, not in the cellar. They are not at all against modern technology, as long as it preserves the identity of the terroir, the varietal and the wine.
They use it mostly to produce wines having this typical elegance and digestibility which makes them going so well with all kind of dishes, Italian or international. Wine and food, this seems to be a holy principle for the Livon family, as we did experience as well during the lunch after the tasting.
In Umbria, Livon produces for the moment only 3 kinds of wine.
Ruris IGT Umbria 2008: made of sangiovese, merlot and sagrantino. Quite deep and intense color. Very fruity, powerful and fresh, with a hint of spices. Powerful, fresh and vivid attack, concentrated structure, ripe tannins, lovely juicy taste, long aftertaste with a gentle bitterish accent. Good wine. Very good value for money, only € 6 at the winery shop!
Montefalco Rosso DOC 2007: Intense ruby red. Very fruity and fresh nose with a spicy background. Very tasty, fresh, digestible, soft and pleasant. Fantastic gastronomic wine. Good wine. Very good value for money, only € 8 at the winery shop!
Sagrantino secco DOCG 2006: Very deep and intense, typical sagrantino color. Very spicy nose, fresh and fruity with well integrated oak nuances. On the palate, fresh and vivid attack, quite complex, with powerful but elegant and ripe tannines, great balance and perfect digestibility. Good wine! Great value for money, only € 15 at the winery shop!
The lunch was a remarkable moment. To be honest, it was not really ‘Umbrian’ but much more ‘Italian’ and even more ‘Furlano’, and surely very tasty! The ambiance was great, relaxed and warm. The food was completely different, a bit of Umbrian, a bit of Tuscan, and quite a lot of Furlano… We really enjoyed very much, thanks to the perfect host during our visit, tasting and lunch, Maurizio Dalmasson. Besides the ‘political correct’ Montefalco wines, we also tasted a nice Villa Chiòpris Prosecco, a very good Fenis ribolla gialla spumante and a very nice Casali Godia verduzzo, followed by coffee and a very good grappa… Actually, we did not really want to leave that wonderful place, but we just had to.
I just can’t wait until I get the chance to visit the Friulian part of this really friendly and open family run business. Who knows, it might happen sometimes… You will be the first to know!
PS: all the pictures on this page, excepted the one with the cask, courtesy Livon website…