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UMBRIA – TOSCANA (15) … FONTODI
The Azienda Agricola FONTODI was the last winery we visited during our press-trip in Umbria and Tuscany. This worldwide famed estate is much more than a simple winery. It is a complete farm on 130 hectares of land, including about 70 hectares of vineyards, olive trees, woods and pastures for the own cattle. The estate works organic, without any chemical product, trying to use as much as possible internal natural resources of the farm. For example, the vineyards are fertilized with compost made from pruning remains from the vines and manure from the own cows. This is not only a question of respecting the environment, but also to preserve and increase the own biodiversity and microbiological identity of the estate. The azienda is located Panzano in Chianti (Firenze) like the one we visited before, Panzanello. This is the heart of the Chianti Classico area. You will find here too t same “smoothly waving landscape with gentle hills and wide valleys, the olive trees, the vines, the cypresses, the fantastic sunlight, the blue sky… etc.” like at Panzanello. But the view from the winery is quite different, facing a small amphitheatre of vineyards, called ‘Conca d’Oro’ (the gold shell). It is blessed by a unique, warm and dry micro-climate with a big difference of temperature between day and night. The soil is a mix of chalk, clay and schist, also known as ‘galestro’. This very peculiar place has been famous for the quality of its grapes for many centuries.
The Conca d’Oro
All the wines from Fontodi are produced with grapes from the own vineyards. The grapes are carefully hand-picked and selected, where after the vinification and aging in wood takes place in the modern wine cellar, build in different levels to make working by gravity possible.
After the visit of the cellar, we settled down for a while in a cozy and cool tasting room for one of the most remarkable tastings of this whole press-trip.
Bottles in the tasting room…
Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2007: yes, yes, yes, 100% sangiovese, from several vineyards with a relatively high plant density (6.000 vines/ha) and low yields. The wine is fermented during at least 2 weeks with indigenous yeasts, and afterwards aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. The result is fantastic: intense and deep color; very fresh, elegant, mineral and ripe fruity nose; very fresh attack, lots of juice and fruit, elegant, mineral, well-balanced structure, ripe and soft tannines, mouth filling and rich but never heavy or boring, with a long, fresh and fruity aftertaste. Very enjoyable already! Good wine with a great value for money!
To show us that this Chianti Classico has also some ageing potential, Giovanni Manetti surprised us with two older vintages. Unfortunately the 1997 wasn’t really clean in the nose. It seemed to me, after smelling the dried cork, that it was infected by a kind of black mould, clearly visible in a few small grooves in the cracked cork. The smell was quite obvious too, but not everyone was agreeing on blaming the cork… I did. A pity actually because the wine behind the smell was really good… The 1990 was in much better shape: spicy and balsamic nose; beautiful, smooth and elegant structure, very juicy and ripe fruity, with a long finish. Good wine!
Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Riserva 2007: this one has 10% cabernet sauvignon and comes from 30 years old vineyards with medium to high plant density (3.500-6.000 vines/ha). This wine too is fermented during at least 3 weeks with indigenous yeasts. After the fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine is aged for 24 months in French oak barrels (50% new). The wine smells a little bit more complex, spicier than the ‘plain’ Chianti Classico. The oak is clearly present but well integrated. A bit more ‘serious’ wine on the palate, concentrated but smooth, with beautiful ripe tannines and vivid acidity, powerful but still elegant. Long and spicy finish showing the young age of the wine and its great aging potential. Very good wine.
Fontodi Casa Via Syrah Colli Toscana Centrale IGP 2007: a totally different register! The plant density is medium to high (4.000-6.000 vines/ha). The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks for at least 3 weeks with indigenous yeasts and afterwards aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (50% new). This 2007 was not as impressive as the two wines before. It is a very tasty wine, round, elegant, spicy but no really complex. Nice wine.
Fontodi Casa Via Syrah Colli Toscana Centrale IGP 2006: I asked for the 2006, to see if it was a question of vintage or of age of the vines. Definitely vintage! The 2006 has much more minerality, with straight stones aromas. I preferred the fruit too, fresher and juicier. The structure was tight and less ‘mild’ than in the 2007. The minerality goes on until the last sip in the finish. The ‘choc dip’ aftertaste could have been a little bit less for my taste. But still, good wine.
Flaccianello della Pieve Colli Toscana Centrale IGP: this wine is made from … 100% sangiovese, selected from the very best plots and grapes, most from smaller bunches with a better ratio between skin, pulp and juice. Plant density: 6.000 vines/ha. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel tanks, with indigenous yeast, for at least 3 weeks. Malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels. Ageing: at least 18 months in new French oak barrels. We tasted quite a few vintages:
2007: Great bouquet, fresh and fruity, with mineral and slightly balsamic tones. Very juicy, elegant, velvety, a great gastronomic wine with powerful but soft and ripe tannins and a lovely minerality. Very good wine!
2006: Fantastic wine, ripe, powerful but elegant and well balanced, with a great ageing potential and beautiful minerality in the long finish. Very good wine!
2001: Wonderful color, deep and intense. Very well balanced, powerful but ripe tannines, plenty of extract, ripe fruit and juice. Very long, mouth filling and fascinating finish. Outstanding wine!
1997: the color of this wine shows more evolution, from brownish red to orange at the rim. The bouquet is fabulously complex: some animal tones, ripe and spicy fruit, aromatic herbs, balsamic nuances, wild berries, and a hint of black truffle… Wow! Great concentration and complexity on the palate, powerful tannines, still fresh, alive and kicking! Very good wine!
A great tasting!
We finished this fabulous tasting with a traditional Tuscan wine:
Fontodi Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG: this wine is made from malvasia and sangiovese grapes, picked in different vineyards with a plant density of 3.500-6.000 vines/ha. The grapes are strictly controlled and dried naturally during 5 months after the harvest. After the pressing, the must is racked in 50-110 liters chestnut and oak barrels for at least 5 years. The result is wonderful: very pure and clean ripe fruity bouquet (almonds, apricot, figs, nuts…). Very fresh and pure on the palate, mouth filling, lovely juicy, smooth and lush, with a perfect balance (220 g residual sugar and 7 g acidity) and a great and long finish. Undoubtedly the most beautiful Vinsanto del Chianti I ever, ever tasted, and the very first one I really LOVE. Outstanding!
By the way, the Fontodi olive oil (organic) from the Chianti Classico area is also highly recommendable!
Giovanni Manetti
Warmest thanks and greetings to the Giovanni Manetti, our very kind host during this visit!
And thanks to Marina, Iolanda and the whole THOMPSON team for this great trip!
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